Monday, May 28, 2012

Eyes Wide Open in Florence



The richness of Italy shows up, when you realize how art is so much a part of their culture. We had our checklist of all of the museums we wanted to visit, filled with all of the great art you could ever imagine, but the greatest museums were the cities themselves: ancient buildings beautifully designed and preserved, narrow cobblestone walking streets peppered with geraniums in doorways, outdoor markets exploding with colorful displays of produce, and cafes filled with spectators sitting back with a cappuccino, marveling at it all.


Upon venturing out into the city of Florence, nose in our maps, we traced the route to go find the Duomo, one of Italy’s largest churches built in the 1200s. Glancing up, I felt the wind knock out of me, as I gasped in surprise...


There it was looming in the distance at the end of the street, a luminous green, pink and white marbled cathedral, with ornate columns and stained glass windows leading up to the magnificent dome. This was the Duomo, Florence's main cathedral housing the largest brick dome ever constructed.




We entered into the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore (or the Duomo, as it was originally called), the main church in Florence. 


The spiraling Gothic architecture was impressive, but we wanted to climb the dome.


Our challenge was seeing if we had the stamina to hike up over 463 narrow, winding and steep marble steps to the top. Probably the most difficult tower we climbed in Italy proved to be the most magnificent. 



The climb initially took you to the inside of the dome, where you could view the painting of the Last Judgement up close. Frescos of torture, with sinners going to hell, made me want leave quickly and continue the hike to the top.



Knees shaking, the views breathtaking, here we were at the top of the Duomo.



Tomorrow, the Uffizi and the Accademia, where art I've only seen in books, comes alive.





Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Venice Heartstrings



Who can say what art is? What is beautiful or interesting to one person may not be to another. All I know as an artist, is what it feels like when something pulls me in, draws me closer, sends a spark down my back. I just know it when I see it.

From the day I set foot in Venice, it was like entering into a museum filled with colors that felt like home to me. Ones that make me want to paint--clear bright reds, rich burnt siennas and that beautiful opaque turquoise color that is like a celadon glaze on pottery. The painting was the city itself. Now heading to Florence, I thought a good summary would be some of my favorite shots of this beautiful oasis called Venice. 





































Monday, May 21, 2012

Venice Food...A Feast for the Eyes



Similar to the markets in France, Italy’s markets are a feast for the eyes …and the palate. The buzzing Rialto Market in Venice was no exception.

The evocative colors and textures of the fresh seafood made you want to go home and cook a feast immediately…even in your hotel room.






The entire community comes out to market, where it is an event for the family.




The meals we had in Venice were elegant and unique, whether it be at a canal side pizzeria or a waterfront trattoria. We were on vacation, and we deemed it our mission to try every aspect of Italian food that we could possibly find (someone had to do it).

The beautiful Murano glass added a touch of elegance to our lunch overlooking the water

Robert's favorite: Beef Carpaccio

My lunch was an elegant puff pastry topped with a roasted crown of artichoke and melted brie
O.k., nap time...  All over Europe, everything does close down from about 1 to 4 p.m., while everyone goes home to take a break, or nap in some instances. We kept forgetting about this, and would typically be out exploring from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. with no siesta! It really makes sense to slow down, take a break in the middle of a work day and refresh, then go back to work. Food for thought...

Sunday, May 20, 2012

A Birthday in Venice



The one thing I want to remember, among all of the crowds of tourists and souvenir shops, is the real Venice. The hush in the morning before the town was awake. The lapping of the water near my window as a gondolier glided by and the sound of the church bells In the distance.

On my birthday, Robert and I started out walking down the maze of streets and intentionally getting lost, wanting to discover quieter pockets of neighborhoods. Walking through narrow alleys, I looked for the perfect spot to paint. Turning a corner, there was absolute silence as we came upon a small arched bridge connecting pink, yellow and cream colored buildings. The still, celadon colored water stopped us in our tracks as we gasped, knowing this was it. With quiet reverence, as if in a cathedral, we each found our own spot...me to paint, and Robert to do photography. I lsat down on the edge of a granite walkway and took in the colors around me. I found my favorite little window and bridge and suddenly I was in heaven.


As I began painting, a gentle rain started. With no umbrella, I continued to paint. As a few drops hit my painting, it gave the painting a wonderful texture. Here's the painting I did, and if you look close, it has real Venice raindrops in it...



...and here's Robert's beautiful shot.


Across the bridge, Robert waved his hand and motioned for me to look up the canal. Right in front of me appeared a beautiful black gondola filled with a few people with colored umbrellas and the gondolier wearing his full regalia...


Every year on my birthday, I have taken the day off to paint, as a way of indulging in my favorite thing to do. This morning was not only my birthday, it was my 60th birthday, and I was in a place that I had dreamt of all of my life. I was here where art began. I was in Italy, the best birthday present of all.



The rest of the day followed with wandering through quieter, lesser-known streets, real neighborhoods and piazzas, accompanied by the sheer joy of discovery. The day ended with my birthday dinner. We first celebrated at a cafe and had our first Bellini ( thank you Dick Ellers!), a wonderful concoction of peaches and champagne. 




Then on to our dinner at La Piscina at Pensione La Calcina, a wonderfully located restaurant right on the Guidecca canal with a sunny view of Guidecca itself (thank you Roseanne Burke!). King prawns, a curry risotto cake with asparagus and a chocolate torte with drizzle of caramel for desert, (and a candle of course.) Note: I promised my daughters that I would photograph as many of our meals as I possibly could. So here I am, at a four start Michelin rated restaurant, as I tried to discreetly whip out my iPad and camera to photograph the meal. The French couple that sat next to us frowned and whispered in disapproval. Hey, it's my birthday and I'll shoot if I want to (isn't that a song???). In the end, I think I had the best memories of all...